Here I go again asking about my future build...
I'm going to build a new computer and just wanted to ask if all my parts will work with out a problem. I 99.9999% know they will no problems, but I like to ask other people to make sure.
Case:IN WIN Griffin Black
Power Supply:Rosewill Xtreme Series 850W
Motherboard: GIGABYTE GA-890XA-UD3 AM3
Processor: AMD Phenom II X4 965 Black Edition
Memory:GeIL Black Dragon 4GB (2 x 2GB)
Video Card:GIGABYTE Super Overclock Series GV-N460SO-1GI GeForce GTX 460 (Fermi)
Hard Drive:Western Digital Caviar Black
CD Drive:LITE-ON CD+- DVD+-
Other Parts:
Card Reader:40-in-1 USB 2.0 3.5" Internal Card Reader
Extra Cables:18" SATA 6 Gbps Cable
Thermal Compound:Arctic Silver 5
Operating System:Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium
Any tips are welcome.
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you have windows HOME. T____T
all jokes aside it looks pretty good and you are going to build yourself a decent computer. congrats!
My only issue would be (outside of windows) is the Hard drive. i have had the most miserable luck with Western Digital Hard Drives. all of the ones i have bought are DOA. one of the drives i had to send it in 4 F&*king times before they sent me one that WASNT dead on arrival. this cost me a lot of money. the good thing is their return usability and RMA system is very nice. they will just R@p3 you with shipping costs. personaly i belive they should have paid the cost on the 2nd DOA drive they sent me.
i never heard of that RAM company so be careful.
best of luck!
I chose the Western Digital drive because I have 3 EDI drives in my home by them, and 2 have lasted longer than 5 years. The newest one I bought because a Unknown name drive burnt out on me mid save. What would be a good alternative? I don't want a large chance of DOA.
I don't know much about the ram brand except that I see much of it on Newegg and its got a Cas Latency of 6. If there is a more trusted pack I would love to know.
Quick question...
What is the speed difference of a Cas Latency of 6 v.s. 9?
Load the App and Play :evil:
In real-world use, outside of synthetic benchmarks, you'd need a microscope to see the difference. Well, not quite. But the speed difference between CAS 6 and CAS 9 on 1333 is maybe 1%. In single-threaded applications, you don't even get that.
There's an interesting article with benchmarks here:
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/phenom-ii-ddr3,2319.html
I'm not familiar with Geil, and Newegg hasn't been carrying their products for long, so there aren't a lot of reviews. That make it really hard to judge reliability.
As far as the hard drive goes, I've used WD drives for 10 years now, with no failures.
I believe that I will stick w/ WD unless I have my own problems. As for RAM would this be better trusted...
Patriot Viper II Sector 5
Load the App and Play :evil:
Stop picking the ones with cool sound names.
I've had no problems with Corsair or OCZ.
I prefer i7 but I love your video card
fantastic.
http://www.islami-sohbet.net
are all manufactureres of hdd. i have had good luck with Hitachi and Segate SATA drives. i had the best luck with Toshiba and Western Digital EIDE drives.
this just go to show that though one company may be good with one style drive Hitachi SATA) they may suck with another style (Hitachi EIDE DEATHSTARS)
i7 wanna 7. Being my first build I am going with brands that are in my computer now because they have worked forever. Just seemed safe.
In my Computer now:
Gigabyte Mobo VT600
Lite-On CD+- DVD reader
AMD Athlon XP 2400+
West Digital HDD 500GB
BFG 5700 Ultra (best card in the my house and its in my computer)
And a 380W power supply that is running on a prayer. A prayer that I don't have to spend more money on this old thing.
From the sounds of it, the parts that I picked aren't bad. The problem that I'm finding is the verity of SATA 6.0Gb/s
Load the App and Play :evil:
I'm not sure what you mean by the verity of SATA 6.0Gb/s. SATA 3 isn't really important for a motherboard right now because there are no hard drives that even come close to maxing out a SATA 2 interface. There probably won't be any for a while considering that the 2.2TB limit is stalling hard drive development.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007603%20...
v.s.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007603%20...
Load the App and Play :evil:
I believe that SATA II 3.0Gb/sec specification can achieve about 1.6Gb/Sec tops in real world conditions, if you're lucky. They don't even come close to using the available bus bandwidth because the mechanical parts of the drive simply aren't fast enough. So the question why would this not be an issue for SATA III? That's the point that the previous poster was trying to make.
Maybe a SSD might be able to do, but it doesn't look like that's what they are.
Point.
So the speed between this drive: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136283 and the one I plan on using in my build: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136533 isn't that big?
Load the App and Play :evil:
The 1TB will probably be a little faster in transfer speed, not because of the SATA3 interface but just because it's a larger drive with higher platter density. OTOH, the 750GB will probably have a marginally faster seek time. The 1TB drive also has a bigger cache. I doubt the performance difference will be more than 5-10% either way.
do you need a more powerful PSU? i may have a spare Antec Earthwatts .5MW 90% efficent Powersupply that i would be willing to sell. i only opened it to sheck the manufacurer (antec doesnt manufacuture their PSUs) to check to see if it was on the watchlist for dangerous capacitors. luckly its not :D.
Ok, now I understand the hard drive speed difference.
@ Mir : I hope I never have to buy a PSU for this computer. Thks though, if I need one I'll know where to go.
Load the App and Play :evil: